Insignia of the Golden Fleece
With the
division of the Order into Spanish and Austrian Orders the nature of the insignia
took very different directions in the two lands. In Spain the motto was never
used on the briquette and the fleece was seen in full profile showing only one
horn and eye. The shapes of the pieces, especially the briquette, became very
ornate and abstract -- a mixture of Moorish and Baroque arabesques. In Austria
the motto was always used, the pieces kept their traditional shapes and, starting
with the late 18th century, the fleece was seen with the head twisted to the front
to show both horns and eyes, and by around 1860 this was the rule for Austrian
bijous. The c. 1850 fleece seen at the left confounds all this reason as it has
essential elements of both Spain and Austria.The fleece is in profile and, almost
uniquely, swings loose in its strap, and the briquette and pierre a fois both
have turned into a baroque ribbon. The flames are of a well known 19th century
Spanish layered style. Yet in contrast it bears the motto in a clear, mid-19th
century sans serif style as do Austrian fleeces, and the ribbon ring is in the
grooved Austrian style of 1814-1850. The most interesting part is that the pierre
a fois is in painted, fired enamel rather than gold sculpture -- I know of no
other example thus. How better than to start with an example that transcends the
rules.
The
insignia of the Spanish Order of the Golden Fleece. The collar is modern and
dates from 1900-1965. It is in silver gilt and is the proper Alpohonse XIII
type. The neck decoration is c. 1900 with a sapphire in the "pierre a fois".
The miniature, in gold and with original ribbon, dates from c. 1860-1890.
Elements of the Spanish insignia to be noted are the fleece being in full profile,
the stylized flames turning into a "mass", and the entirely abstract
"briquet" that no longer resembles anything this side of the Alhambra.
The modern Austrian fleece has the head twisted to show both eyes and horns,
even when the fleece as a whole is in profile. The individual flames are more
distinct in the Austrian fleece and the "briquet" is clearly the fire
steel of the house of Burgundy and shows the motto on full size bijous. There
are clear differences in the style of the fleece both in sculpture and in hanging
form. The fleece on this bijou and collar are the tight, slender leg toison
of the modern Spanish order. The Austrian is a plumper, more substantial beast
in the modern form. Anciently all were woolier and more clearly delineated,
and many of the original fleeces took the form of the complete ram rather than
only its hanging fleece. (Miniature from the chancelier's collection; bijou
in a private collection; collar in a private American collection.)
Two Jeweled fleeces from Bavaria -- mid 18th century
Probably
created for Maximillian II, Duke and Elector of Bavaria (Spanish knight no.
718), these two gold bijous are richly set with diamonds, garnet, sapphire and
ruby. They date from the mid 18th century and are probably of Bavarian manufacture.
It is with objects such as these that we can see the truth in the statement
that by this period orders were the "jewelry of European noblemen".
Their original and more devotional origins were long forgotten and they became
only another status symbol. Perhaps inevitable in a modern state but also the
beginning of their decay and ultimate disappearance.
An
interesting and very early mid-17th to 18th century brass-gilt bijou of Portugese
or Spanish origin. Owing to the dangers of loss and cost of gold, brass-gilt
and bronze-gilt fleeces were common in the 16th to early 18th centuries, especially
for wear with armor. Often very large (to 9 cm. wide) they saw heavy daily usage
and are scarce. The fleece style here, of a life-like ram standing, is seen
in pieces worn by Charles V in the mid-16th century and is a Spanish form. The
peculiar curving "pierre a fois" flames are also Hispanic in style,
as is the stylized firesteel above. The firesteel arabesque contains a decorative
"pierre a fois" design similar to printer's fleurons of the late 17th
century. The mounts of this piece show long wearing and several old repairs
consistent with its age. The flames are set with old mine cut crystal or pastes
of a very early and crude brilliant cut, and the central amethyst hints at the
Portugese mines in Brasil, as does the overall large and elaborate style. The
flat cut of the flames and mounting of the stones matches the Bavarian pieces
shown above that date to the mid 18th century. On the left, the entire Bijou;
on the right the fine arabesque firestone within the firesteel. (From the chancelier's
collection)
An
interesting and eccentric private Spanish Fleece Collar in gold, synthetic sapphire,
enamel and cameos from the early 20th century. The collar has only 18 sets of
firestones and paired fire steels and so is short of the usual 28 sets. The
cameos are of late 18th century manufacture. From a European Royal House.
A late
19th century badge in gold and enamel of the greffier of the Spanish Order of
the Golden Fleece. Although fleeces in various forms come to market from time
to time, the badges of officials are very rare.From an European Catalog.
Gold
badge of office of the Grand Inquisitor, or head of the Church Council of
the Spanish Holy Office, that is an interesting association item with the Golden
Fleece. From the last quarter of the 17th century this officer was Balthasar
Sarmiento de Mendoza y Sandoval, 5th Marquis of Camarosa, Bishop of Segovia
and Knight of the Order of the Golden Fleece No. 476. The badge is closely dated
to c. 1700 and so is almost certainly his.
The insignia
of the Austrian Order of the Golden Fleece remained more traditional than the
Spanish ones. The one illustrated here is the standard full Austrian bijou of
the order in finely chisled gold dating from the mid ninteenth century. It has
all elements including the fleece, pierre a fois, briquet with motto and Jason
illustration and the decorative knot piece for the ribbon. Suspended from the
neck by the red ribbon of the order. This example reflects the highest quality
of the standard fleece. Interestingly, although clearly an Austrian bijou the
fleece itself is of Spanish style with the rams head shown in profile rather than
frontal (also see the item below). From a German noble family
A lovely
and rare Austrian baroque bijou from around 1750 in gold and enamel. The influence
of the Spanish Fleece can be seen in the stylized fire steel without the motto
that the Austrian pieces invariably bore at a later date. Compare the near standing
and lifelike fleece here with that of the Portugese/Spanish one above. (From
the Spada collection)
The Schwartzenberg Princen
Fleece is a masterfully chased gold Fleece in a Prinzen size (20 mm. wide)
made for Joseph Adam, Prince of Schwartzenberg between 1740 and 1780. The opening
in the back of the clasp indicates that at one time it was attached to the elements
of the full bijou, but they are long lost or the Fleece was deliberately detached
for wearing as a knopfloch. The current gold mounting wire is old and matches
those on other old Austrian medals. The remainder of these unique Fleeces were
in the collection of Dr. Spada, and are likely lost forever following their theft
some years ago. They may, however, still be seen in his "Onori e Glorie"
publication. For more about the Schwartzenbergs and their history see the Schwartzenberg
page. (In the collection of the Cancelier.) 
A
wonderful enameled 17th century “jewel” of a holder or officer of the Golden
Fleece. On the obverse we see Emperor Leopold of Austria (clearly showing the
“Habsburg Jaw”), and on the back the Austrian coat of arms with
Leopold’s initials L(eopolus) I(mperator). Above a crown and hanging below
a rich, golden fleece. This item was purchased in Paris by one of our correspondents.
Such pieces were often a gift of the ruler shown to a specially favored subject.
(In a private French collection)
The miniature and
chain is the daily wearing form in civilian or official undress. The miniature
fleece to the right is of solid gold and excellent quality dating from the late
ninteenth century. The chain, in bronze gilt, is later and of much lesser quality.
(From the collection of Joy Hawkes) 
A very
artistic Austrian miniature fleece in gold with the ram's head turned 3/4 left.
I have seen two other miniatures with this very 3-dimensional sculpting. Early
20th century.(In the collection of the Cancelier) 
