
A modern Alphonse XIII style collar of the Spanish Order of the Golden Fleece. Of incredible rarity, this is the only collar of this order we have seen in thirty years of collecting and dealing, and the only others I know of in commerce were one Spanish and one Austrian that passed through a German auction house in the mid 1980s. The normal modern collars have 27 pairs of briquets and firestones and a closing clasp. This one has 18 pairs and so rides shorter. Persons with several collars to wear shortened the top collar(s) to allow all to be worn without damage, as would much shorter people who could not wear the longer collar properly. As a senior order this one would be the top one worn, and collars from the fifteenth century are also known of this length. It is also possible that some link pairs have been removed by previous owners.
Collars were stored in the treasury of the order and issued when required for ceremonies. These collars were never the property of the members and could not be sold. Collars of the type here were the proper 20th century Spanish type and were also the type created privately for Spanish members following the establishment of the republic and abdication of Alphonse XIII and throughout the Franco period, as the ones in the treasury were not available for use. It is also possible that collars were stolen from the treasury during the civil war and sold on the market. This collar comes from Gale Hawkes who acquired it from a collector who purchased it in 1980 from a collector who acquired it in the 1960s. No hallmarks or maker's marks. Following the return of King Juan Carlos the private making of collars for members is no longer permitted. This collar exactly matches one shown in a painting of Don Juan, Count of Barcelona by Manuel Benedito that hangs in the Estorial.
The collar has recently been examined by the Chancellery of the Order of the Golden Fleece in Spain and they verify that it is of high quality, is accurately described above and is likely a piece of the 1940s or 1950s and that they would have purchased it but lacked the funds. Letter from the Chancellery and wrapping from the Royal Palace included.
Silver gilt and enamel.
An Imperial Austrian
wearing bijou from c. 1900 in silver gilt. In very fine condition with a couple
enamel flakes and two very old repairs to the blue enamel on the reverse consistent
with long wearing of the bijou. Very scarce and important and seldom seen in commerce
compared to the much commoner Spanish Fleece. Complete with fleece, pierre a fois,
briquet, ribbon slide and an old neck ribbon with ties. Provenance known for over
40 years: ex Herold, ex Hawkes, ex Ostrom (1960s).
These were the kind of daily wearing fleeces that actually saw use. The heavier,
and much more valuable solid gold ones were usually reserved for special occassions.
As we can see from the well known collections of the Schwartzenbergs and Furstenburgs
they possessed many examples in their jewelry collections.
VF+ -- $3,200.00 SOLD

The Order of the Golden
Fleece is seldom met with in commerce. One of the more interesting varieties is
the so called "knopfloch" or "button-hole" Fleece. The Fleece was in early times
worn by itself on a ribbon, usually red but sometimes black (Phillip II of Spain
favored black ribbons). As the Fleece became larger and more complex with the
steel, touchstone and motto being added it became awkward to wear in everyday
usage. In Germany and France it became the habit to wear only the Fleece on a
red ribbon through a button hole, especially from the mid nineteenth century on.
Later a button was often sewn on the back of the ribbon to facilitate wearing.
A second example. $850.00 SOLD
A
complete bijou of the Spanish Golden Fleece in silver-gilt fom the middle to
late period of Alphonso XIII, most likely 1900-1930 in date. Of the Spanish
Fleeces that we have seen this is one of the very finest, with high quality
workmanship, a creative design and a light blue sapphire in the Pierre a Fois.
The Fleece is in the Spanish profile manner and is in full round, but the other
elements are uniface as is normal with Spanish Fleece insignia. The briquette
is an elaborate Hispano-Moorish style of knotted “B”s with finely
engraved edges, and the flames are exceptionally modeled and complex for modern
Spanish bijous. The cut ball pivot for the Fleece hints at French workmanship,
as does the Art Nouveau briquette design. Contemporary and likely original cravat
ribbon.
From a noted American collection with 40 years of provenance through four owners. No hallmarks, as is usual in Spanish jewelry of this period.
VF -- $1,500.00 SOLD


A commerative medal
celebrating the coronation of Empress Maria Anna Augusta and Emperor Ferdinand
I as queen and king of Bohemia in Prague in September 1836. Blackened bronze,
highlights polished brighter. Obverse inscribed: "MARIA . ANNA . AVGVSTA . FERDINANDI
. I . IMP . ET . REGIS", reverse: "GERMANY . ET . ALTERA . MIHI . PATRIA / CORON.PRAGAE.MENSE.SEPT.MCCCXXXVI(sic)"
with crown on cushion above Bohemian coat of arms.
VF
$125.00 SOLD
The Apostolic Order
of St. Stephen was founded by the Empress Maria Theresa on 5 May, 1764 to reward
civil merit by members of the Hungarian nobility with at least four quarterings
of nobility. It kept to its original purpose to the end of the Empire and is
the rarest of the great Austro-Hungarian orders since it never became a common
a reward for service. This particular silver gilt piece has magnificent and
lustrous enamel and exceptionally fine guillots engraved below the enamel making
it a production of a major jeweler. Undoubtedly a wearer's piece from the end
of the Empire.
A Knight's Cross by a major jeweler from 1870-1918.
Reference: Steiner, o3.3c.
NEF -- $1,200.00 SOLD
The Apostolic Order of St. Stephen was founded by the Empress Maria Theresa on 5 May, 1764 to reward civil merit by members of the Hungarian nobility with at least four quarterings of nobility. It kept to its original purpose to the end of the Empire and is the rarest of the great Austro-Hungarian orders since it never became a common reward for service. Even the Golden Fleece, with only 50 members, is seen more frequently in commerce. This silver gilt piece has magnificent and lustrous enamel and exceptionally fine guillots engraved below the enamel making it a production of a major jeweler. An even finer piece than that which we sold previously, and it has an Imperial era hallmark on the back of the mounting clip. New ribbon with an old, bronze ribbon ring. The piece has a fine patina of age on the crown while overall clean and bright.
(For enlarged photos go to St. Stephen Photos)
A Knight's Cross by a major jeweler from 1870-1918.
Reference: Steiner, o3.3c.; Spada (France, Russia, Austria) page 227 no.2
EF -- $1,800.00 SOLD
An example of this
important medal in very fine condition with little or no wear to the surface
or lettering. Lacking the issue green lacquer but showing remnants of an unofficial
and very old gilding. Possibly an officer's cross. Proper double eagle in a
diamond hallmark on the top of the strap for the ribbon ring. No ribbon or ribbon
ring, but these are often missing.
VF
$125.00 SOLD
An officers gilt Canon Cross in good condition with the officers initials "L.M.
engraved in contemporary script on the bottom edge. A nice example of the very
scarce named officers crosses in a quaint variation. Proper double eagle in
a diamond hallmark on the top of the strap for the ribbon ring. No ribbon but
a fine, old decorative ribbon ring.
VF
$425.00 SOLD

Facing
the danger posed by Napoleon's victories in Italy in 1796 the Austrian Emperor
took the daring step of authorizing the raising of militias for the defence of
the realm. Both the conservative Tyrol and Olmutz responded in 1796. This medal
was for all Tyrolian enlisted men who took up arms in the mobilization call of
12 August 1796. Dies by Johann Wirt, then working in Paris. Much scarcer than
the 1797 Tyrolian medal when the mobilization was much larger. A fine piece of
205 year-old history from the Napoleonic era.

The only miniature we have ever seen of the second medal for the defense of
Jellalabad during the First Afghan War. Contemporary and very fine except for
repaired suspension (no longer swivels). The British government issued this
medal when they decided that the original "Mural Crown" medal was
too inelegant and not classical enough for current British taste. Men were asked
to hand in their medals in exchange, and only a dozen or so did. Very rare in
any form.
VF
$550.00 SOLD
The
oldest and finest "sweetheart pin" we have ever seen. Not hallmarked
but a fine piece of silversmith's work from 1816-1818 in the typical Georgian
style. The 18th Hussars were at Waterloo, mentioned on the pin, and so it is
later than 1815, and the 18th was disbanded in 1818 which is the latest possible
date. Apx. 1.6" tall in silver and ivory with oil painted front in black,
rose and gold showing the regimental crown and garter badge with Peninsula and
Waterloo battle honors. The silver pin works well and the piece can be worn.
The 18th was stationed in the north of England and so it was likely made by
a provincial jeweler there. It is much more closely related to portrait miniatures
on ivory of the same period than to the private military medals of the era.
This is at least 100 years older than any other sweetheart pin we have seen,
and it is a most rare and unique Napoleonic antique. Ex Gale Hawkes.
Comes with a list of the officers of the regiment at this time and some copies of prints and descriptions of the regiment.
VF -- $1,200.00 SOLD


c. 1860-1880,
first version of the final type. Hallmarked gold by a major jeweler with early
style, original ribbon. The jewel-like luster of the enamels is exceptional. Like
new condition except for a slight discoloration on the back of the orb in the
eagle's left claw. Considered by many to be the most beautiful of all European
orders. Ex Gale Hawkes.
A splendid hussar officer's belt in silver bullion and red, white and blue
silk. Red felt backing and gilt and chrome buckle plate. Dates from the inter-war
period of the Kingdom of Jugoslavia. Scarce and unusual and in very fine condition,
except for some staining to the gilt buckle plate that will clean off. $150.00
SOLD
A magnificent leather portfolio commerating Franz Joseph's 50th year on the
throne issued by Bad Ischl, the small spa town where he spent all his summers.
It is on Japanese vellum, a bit brittle and with some edge damage, with several
etchings and color illuminations. It is signed by every member of the Ischl
town council. The leather is multicolored with a large, embossed copper ornament
on the cover. A magnificent presentation piece of surprisingly intimate character
for such an august and distant monarch.
$1,250.00 SOLD

An
exceptional example of one of the rarest Napoleonic orders from the collection
of the noted Napoleonic collector Robert Florey. Napoleon established the Coronne
de Fer in 1805 for the Kingdom of Italy as the Italian equivalent to the Legion
of Honor. Napoleon only wore, and always wore, the first two orders he created
-- the Legion of Honor and the Coronne de Fer. Any serious Napoleonic collector
must have both and the Coronne is vastly more rare. There were some 40,000 First
Empire Legion of Honor awards and only around 500 Coronne de Fer, and a much
smaller percentage of Coronnes have survived. Most of the Italian insignia were
destroyed in exchange for Austrian Iron Crowns after the 1816 reorganization
of the Order. The Coronne was given so seldom that even Marshall Lannes, Napoleon's
closest friend, was only a knight, and not a dignitary, of the order. In the
last 20 years there have been many hundreds of First Empire Legion of Honor
pieces for sale, but less than a dozen Coronnes.
This example is a large, French-made bijou of true Imperial character. It has a correct French First Empire period punched proof mark. The eagle is a magnificent late Empire type of the 1812-1814 period with richly engraved feathers and high rising wings. The gold medalion Napoleon-head is a right-facing variety (Type II, 1st variety). Type II of 1809-1814 has balls on the tips of the crown to reduce splitting of the enamel, and the motto is only in Italian (the very rare Type I of 1805-1809 has no balls on the tips, and two basic varieties with the motto in Italian or French depending on the nationality of the holder). The motto is complete here and has only modest chipping to the bottom of the blue band; the light blue enamel of the tips has faded with age and has some splits. The ribbon is a very old Second Empire period ribbon and is in good condition, but with normal overall fading. Old ribbons are very unusual with the Coronne as they almost invariably have rotted away. (I have found no genuine French First Empire ribbon in useable condition, and most are badly rotted and faded, if not shreading.)
This
is one of three Coronnes that Robert Florey had in his collection that were
purchased from French dealers from the 1930s to the 1960s. Robert Florey was
the director of Flying Tigers, with John Wayne, and God Is My Co-Pilot
among some 56 movies. His Coronnes were sold from his estate by Gale Hawkes,
the noted dealer in medals and orders, around 1990, and then passed into a large
and important Washington State collection for many years. Such items are increasingly
rare and very seldom seen, especially with such provenance. Another, similar,
French-made Coronne was offered in 2004 by a noted British dealer for some 4200
Pounds.
VF+ condition with original patina and old, Second Empire period ribbon.
Reference: Spada (France, Russia, Austria) page 57 no.1
$5,000.00 SOLD


VF condition with original patina and modern ribbon.
Reference: Spada (France, Russia, Austria) page 57 no.1
A Legion
of Honor that is unusual in that it can be both be identified to maker and relatively
precisiely dated. Of all the order makers Biennais, jeweler to Napoleon, used
a cross patee or maltese cross on the top rather than the latin cross. The crown
shows decorative elements of the late 3rd type of Legion of Honor but the badge
is 4th type with balls on the ends of the points (to prevent enamel chips, but
not entirely successfully). This would date its manufacture to December 1812
after Napoleon’s return to Paris following the Russian disaster. There
were few Legion badges made while the Russian invasion was in progress, but
a large number were dispensed when Napoleon returned briefly in December to
reorganize the government and suppress discontent and plots.
There is the unsual enamel splitting to the tips of the arms and contact chipping to the blue background of the motto on the reverse, but overall a very fine piece. A plus is the very old and possibly original, ribbon. It is older appearing than any of the hundreds of ribbons we have seen on First Empire Legions of Honor, and is dyed with the old vegetable dyes.
$1,250.00 SOLD


Transitory
and one of the scarcest Napoleonic items. Intended to replace a wide range of
orders in the Netherlands and Germany, it was only issued for some five years
before becoming obselete. There were around 1,400 awards made in three classes,
of which this is an example of the Knights award. Some one third of the awards
were to Frenchmen, and the majority were to Dutch citizens. With the first abdication
of Napoleon it was no longer permitted to wear the badge itself, but the ribbon
or sash could be worn. After the 100 days its use was entirely forbidden.
This example is of silver gilt and was clearly a daily wearing copy, still retaining
what appears to be the original, light blue silk ribbon. Although crisp and
in a good state of preservation, there is wear to the gilding, especially on
the back where it would rub against clothing. There is some of the usual enamel
splits that are shared by the Legion of Honor as well with its narrow points.
VF, except for some loss of gilding, with worn original ribbon
$1,500 SOLD
Awarded
to Walter Krüger of L.G.Bl. Nr. 28. Comes with original award document,
Nazi Abscrift permission to wear document (only the bottom shown) and two photos
(c. 1930) of Krüger and his unit in uniform. A fine WW I-Anschush Austrian
historic group.



VF -- $75.00 SOLD
1.
A large and attractive award document to an Under-lieutenant of Garrison Artillery.
Issued in the name of Franz Joseph I and mentioning Austria only secondarily.
2. Award document to an Under-lieutenant of Garrison Artillery (same as Gilt
award above). Issued in the name of Austria-Hungary with Kaiser Karl graphically
and politically secondary. A most interesting change of national vision during
the war and a foretaste of separate national identities. It is also worthy of
note that despite two years separating the awards, and immense casualties to
the Austrian army, he is still only an Unter-lieutenant. Promotion, even in
the lower officer ranks, was class driven and not related to service or merit.
Pair of metals in VG+ condition with original ribbons and both award Documents.
$150.00 SOLD
In commeration of
the fiftieth anniversary of his reign, Emperor Franz Joseph authorized this
medal for those who had completed 50 years duty in his service on or before
2 December 1898. A separately coined imperial eagle containing the suspension
is joined to the medal. The medal dies were cut by J. Tautenhayn, Jr., and this
medal exactly matches the official dies as used by Rothe of Vienna and so is
proper. As might be expected this medal is very rare since few people lived
to work for 50 years, and even fewer did so for the Emperor. Probably an everyday
“wearing” version.
Reference: Heyden 1343, VH&S 1119, MI # 500, Falkenstein pp. 106-7, Steiner
e15.1
EF
$300.00 SOLD

The
only Medal of Honor it is legal to own unless it was awarded to you. In the
U.S. miniatures are allowed for mess dress with the exception of the Medal of
Honor, which always must be worn full size around the neck. A fine quality miniature
MOH was produced after the Spanish American War in some 100 copies, but it was
rejected by the U.S. military and these are seldom seen. Some few private miniatures
have been made since of which this is one. This miniature seems to be a post
WW II copy as it has a clutch back, and it clearly has seen much wear with some
enamel chips and one clutch pin broken off. There were many MOHs awarded in
WW II, so it seems the most likely period. The exact date is uncertain, however,
with one expert thinking it pre WW II and another perhaps Viet Nam era. Very
scarce and desirable whatever period it represents and almost certainly worn
by a MOH recipient.
In the 1990s the U.S. government responded to the growing number of reproduction MOHs, and the buying and selling of the nation’s highest decoration, by making it illegal to own, buy or sell a MOH. Only holders of the decoration or their heirs could legally possess the piece. Several MOHs being offered or advertised in violation of this law were siezed, but as the miniature is completely unofficial it is exempt from this regulation.
Provenance: from a major German dealer.
$250.00 SOLD